|
|
Stingray
Disassembly Guide
Tools Needed:
- 5/32" or 4mm allen wrench
- 3/16" pin punch, or #10 x 3" machine
screw, or 16 penney nail (with the tip ground flat)
- 1/8" pin punch, or #6 x 3" machine
screw, or 8 penney nail (with the tip ground flat)
- 1/16" pin punch, or 1/16" rod
or nail, or awl
- Small hammer
- Pliers
- Dental pick or small screwdriver
- Large screwdriver or old butter knife
 Step 1: Begin by removing the
plastic pins that hold in the aluminum barrel and plastic
shroud on the 'Ray 1, or the aluminum barrel only on the
'Ray 2. If the pins are tight, you can push them out from
the other side with a 5/32" allen wrench or 3/16"
pin punch. You may need to tap lightly with a hammer.
Note: Some 'Rays have quick strip pins with rings
which pull out easily. |
 The barrel and shroud ('Ray 1) or barrel
('Ray 2) should pull right out. It may be stuck with dirt
and/or dried paint goo, but a gentle side to side motion
should work it free. If only the shroud on the 'Ray 1
comes out, no problem. Pull the shroud all the way off,
then pull out the barrel. |
 Step 2: Remove the plastic pins that
hold the grip frame to the top frame. If they're tight,
you can push them out from the other side with a 5/32"
allen wrench or 3/16" pin punch. You may need to
tap lightly with a hammer. Note: Some 'Rays have
quick strip pins with rings which pull out easily. After
the pins are out, pull the grip frame and top frame apart. |
 This is what you should have so far:
A - top frame; B - grip frame; C - retaining
pins, long; D - retaining pin, short; E - top frame
pin; F - cocking screw; G - barrel and shroud
Remember, if you have a 'Ray 2, you'll
have just an aluminum barrel, without the plastic shroud. |
 |
Step 3:
Remove the cocking screw by turning it counter clockwise.
(Righty tighty, lefty loosey!) If it's stubborn, use a
pair of pliers to loosen it. Wrap a rag around it first,
to protect it from the pliers. |
 |
Step 4:
From either side, using your 3/16" pin punch (or
#10 x 3" machine screw, or 16 penney nail) and hammer,
tap out the pin that holds the valve and tube assembly
in place. |
 |
Step 5:
Lay the top frame on the table, and carefully slide out
the valve and tube assembly. |
 |
If the valve and tube assembly
doesn't want to slide out, the velocity screw may be holding
it in. Using your 5/32" allen wrench, screw the velocity
screw in a few turns. |
 To remove the detent ball, you'll need to
push out the roll pin which holds in the detent cap. Using
a 1/16" pin punch (or nail or awl), push the pin
from one side until you can pull it out with pliers. Put
a finger over the cap before fully removing the pin, or
you'll lose parts. When the pin is out, very carefully
remove the cap, spring, and ball. |
 Here are the detent parts:
A - detent ball (the stock ball is steel,
not the acrylic which is shown); B - detent spring;
C - detent cap; D - detent pin |
| When reassembling the detent assembly,
put the ball in first, then make sure the large end of
the spring goes against the ball. Caerfully hold the cap
in place with a finger, line up the holes, and push the
pin through. You may have to work with it a bit to get
the pin to go all the way through. A little finesse is
called for here. |
 |
Here is the valve and tube
assembly. If any pins fell out after you removed it, that's
okay. Just don't loose them! |
 |
Step 6: Remove
the bolt by lifting the transfer link out of the slot
in the hammer, and sliding the bolt forward off the bolt
guide. |
 |
Step 7: Remove
the pins that hold the donkey (CA adapter) in place. They
may have already fallen out, or they might fall out with
a little gentle pushing and pulling on the donkey. If
not, tap them out with your 3/32" allen wrench or
1/8" pin punch. |
 |
Pull the donkey out. The
transfer tube will probably stay in either the donkey
or the valve - go ahead and pull it out. |
 |
The donkey and one end of
the transfer tube. The urethane o-ring on the transfer
tube can be clearly seen. |
 |
The "business"
end of the donkey. This is where the CO2 tank screws in.
You can see the brass colored depressor pin inside. The
depressor pin is what depresses the pin valve on the CO2
tank. |
 |
Step 8:
Remove the valve pin. This pin may have already fallen
out, or it might fall out with a little gentle pushing
and pulling on the valve. If not, tap it out with your
3/32" allen wrench or 1/8" pin punch. |
 Slide the valve out in the direction of the arrow.
If it's stuck, do NOT use pliers on the bolt guide. Instead,
push it out, after you've removed the hammer and spring
(see below). Or, using a wooden dowel or the handle of
your scredriver, tap gently on the back of the valve housing
where it sticks through the top of the hammer tube (opposite
the velocity screw). |
 Step 9: Push out the
hammer, spring, and spring guide. There may be a little
resistance. If the valve is out, you can push the parts
out in the direction of the arrow, with a long screwdriver
or piece of dowel. Or, carefully push the spring and guide
out by putting a screwdriver tip in the slot in the hammer
(bottom photo), and pushing them out. The hammer should
then come right out. |
 Here are all the parts you've
taken out of the valve tube assembly:
A - valve assembly; B - transfer tube;
C - donkey; D - valve pin; E - valve tube; F - hammer;
G - hammer spring; H - hammer bumper; I - spring guide;
J - bolt; K - bolt transfer link; L - donkey pins |
 |
Step 10: Using
your butter knife or large screwdriver, remove the valve
retainer by turning it counter clockwise. Careful, it's
spring loaded! |
 |
The newer Stingray 2s have a redesigned
valve retainer. Instead of a slot in the face, it has
wrench flats. Use a crescent wrench to turn it counter
clockwise to remove it. |
 |
After the valve seal retainer
is loose, remove it slowly by hand, being careful not
to let the valve stem shoot out. |
 |
The valve stem, seal, and
spring should slide out easily. |
 |
On the newer Ray 2s, the valve seal fits
on a nipple on the back of the brass retainer. When you
remove the retainer, the seal may or may not come with
it. |
 |
Here is another photo of
the new Stingray 2 retainer, with the seal on the nipple.
The new retainer also uses just one o-ring. |
 |
There are two parts down
inside the valve housing, the washer and o-ring. Carefully
pull them out, using a dental pick, or small screwdriver. |
 Here are all the parts you've
taken out of the valve assembly:
A - valve body/bolt guide; B - velocity
screw; C - urethane o-ring; D - valve washer; E - valve
spring; F - valve stem; G - valve seal; H - valve seal
retainer |
| |
When reassembling, make sure
the urethane o-ring is seated in the groove down inside
the valve housing. |
 |
One side of the valve washer
has a ridge on it. Make sure, when reassembling, that
the ridge side goes in first (towards the o-ring). |
 |
When putting the valve seal
back on the valve stem, make sure the ridge on the seal
faces the brass retainer. |
 |
On the new Ray 2, make sure
the valve seal is on the nipple on the back of the retainer
before reassembling. |
Obviously, reassembly is the reverse
of disassembly. Just follow the disassembly directions backwards,
and you'll get it all back together!
Written and photographed by Jim "Quake" Lane, founder
of STING
|
