Raptor Technical Help Guide

Velocity Help
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If your having velocity problems with your Raptor, there are a few things you can do.  
1. Clean it and lube it
2. Take off the o-rings on the bolt (if you still have the stock bolt)
3. You could also "cone" out your stock bolt for better flow.
4. MOST IMPORTANT: Check your striker spring.  The striker(hammer) spring is the force that actually pushes the striker into the valve.  The harder the striker hits the valve, the longer the valve will "stay open" and you'll get more flow (also less efficiency).  You don't want the striker to hit the
valve too hard though or you could "mushroom" the valve if you still have the stock valve.  The stock valve is made of a soft brass and can't take very strong hits.  You could add spacers to the striker spring guide and that will help increase the tension on the striker spring.  If the striker spring has a
stronger tension, then it will push the striker with greater force.  That is why the velocity adjustment screw is on the striker (lower, rear) plug.  When the adjustment screw is screwed in, it increases the tension on the striker spring.  When you back the screw out, it relieves some of the tension on the striker spring causing it NOT to have as much force.

Polishing internals
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Things you should polish:
Sear, striker, inside of the marker (upper and lower chambers) and the valve stem (on the cupseal).
What to use:
Any polishing compound should work fine. The Turtle Wax polishing compound in the little green tubs work great and can be picked up in the auto department at most stores.
How to do it:
Before you start, make sure everything is clean. To polish the sear, striker and valve stem, just some polish and a towel or rag should do. A Dremel tool works even better. To polish the inside of the marker, get a small, foam paint roller. Then get a long rod and put the foam paint roller on the rod. Then hook the rod onto a drill and polish away! You could also use a rag or small towel on the end of a rod and that would also work.
 

Valve Assembly Installation
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This is how your valve assembly should be installed into your marker.
1. Push the valve in with a wooden dowel (or stick or whatever). Make sure the flat side of the valve with the two holes is facing the rear of the marker. The smaller hole (blow-back pressure hole) is supposed to be on the bottom, but it isn't necessary.
2. Line up the hole on your valve with the hole on the buttom of the receiver, under where the grip frame goes (grip frame must be removed from the receiver). Once you have lined up the holes, screw in your valve set screw but don't screw it in too far. Screw it in just enough so that it is holding your valve in place. This is very important if the screw is in too far, it will block that small hole and you will have no blow-back pressure to recock your marker.
3. Now that your valve is in place and is being held by the valve set screw, hold your gun vertically so that the barrel end is facing up. Now drop your valve stem (with cup seal attached) down inside the valve chamber. You want the valve stem to pass through the valve and the cup seal should be facing toward the front of the marker. You may have to do this several times un till you get the valve stem to drop down all the way inside the valve. A flash light is a big help here.
4. Next drop your starwasher down. The hole in the center of the washer should fit over the little knob on the end of the cup seal.
5. Now put your valve spring in and then screw the valve plug back in.
That's it! To disassemble the valve assembly just go backwards, start at step 5.
 

Jackhammering
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Causes:
1) No lube
2) Bad striker o-ring
3) Dirty chambers
4) Poor flow (LP only)
5) Valve/valve stem mushrooming
6) Worn/damaged sear
7) Worn/damaged striker
Valve set screw in too far.
9) Valve in upside-down.
Make sure your gun is clean, and that all seals are intact. To check for mushrooming, make sure that the valve stem slides freely in the valve. If it doesn't, then take sandpaper and thin down the stem until it slides and/or use a file or dill to widen the hole of the valve. If you can push the striker forward from its cocked position by pushing on the cocking knob, then your sear or striker is worn. Check them or chips and replace as necessary.

Breaking paint.
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2 kinds of breaks - Chopping (paint + shells in bolt area) Breaking (paint in barrel)
There are a number of things that can cause breaks. Jackhammering, A mis-aligned powerfeed plug, burrs on the bolt face, a stock bolt  , double feeding, a detent wire too far in, or a new plastic detent.
Replacing the plastic detent with one from a Spyder will work just fine. Filing it down helps too.
Firing too fast without a motorized hopper can also lead to breakage.

Written by Typhren, with contributions from Hoologan, Jay Raptor, Doughie, and PB8869.