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Stingray Tech Info Guide

Finding a leak in your Stingray can be one of the most frustrating aspects of troubleshooting. However, a logical step-by-step process of elimination will usually produce positive results. The majority of leaks are caused by dirt. Another major cause is worn o-rings. Sometimes, just cleaning and re-lubing your 'Ray will eliminate an internal leak. So the FIRST thing to do, is clean and lube it! Check out the Disassembly Instuctions for help.

The first thing you'll need to do is identify the area of the leak. This can give you a clue as to where the leak might be eminating from. For this stage of the process, you'll rely on the most basic of leak detection tools - your ears! All you need to do is detect the area of the 'Ray that the hiss is coming from.

A - The barrel. If the leak seems to be coming from the barrel, you should suspect the valve (cup) seal. Try cleaning the old seal and soak it in ATF for an hour or so, then reassemble. If this doesn't do it, try replacing the seal with a new one.

A - Air coming from the power tube (bolt guide). Small urethane o-ring inside the valve housing OR the plastic valve seal/cup seal.

B - The velocity screw. If the leak seems to be coming from here, try putting some teflon tape on the velocity screw. If that doesn't do it, it could be coming from the transfer tube or the valve. Soak the transfer tube o-rings in ATF and reassemble, or replace them with new ones. If that doesn't do it, try the valve seal. (See above.)

B - Air could be coming from between the valve body and the transfer tube. Valve retaining cap o-ring or retaining cap not screwed on tight enough (personal experience).

B - Air could be coming from around where the valve body and the transfer tube and hammer tube come together. This leak will look like air is coming from the valve body. Closer examination will reveal that co2 is coming between the tight seal between the hammer tube and the valve body and escaping out of the groove in the top of the hammer tube where the valve body and hammer tube come together.

C - The cocking slot. If the hiss is loudest here, it could be the transfer tube or the valve. (See above.)

C - Air leaking inside the hammer tube, Valve seal.

D - The donkey. If it's coming from the back of the donkey, it's probably the CO2 tank or quick-change o-ring. Replace the o-ring with a new one.

E - The tank valve. If it's coming from the tank valve, it should leak whether the tank is in the gun or not. If this is the leak, have your tank repaired by a qualified airsmith.


Written by Jim "Quake" Lane and Chris "SugarRay" Cotner

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